Mysore is known as the city of palaces, and rightly so. We decided that we would take a bus trip to Mysore for the day. Why not, at 390 rupees, (~9USD) for an entire day of being driven around from site-to-site, it was well worth it. As always, my story revolves around the four of us, and today Eric joined us too. We went to all the big touristy places and got hit by all the touristy vendors that wanted to sell something. It was an adventure that pushed our barging skills to new limits.
Like I was
saying, we took a bus, a city tour bus. It was actually a lot roomier than I
initially thought it would be. I had room to stretch my legs out and my knees
did not run into the seat in front of me! Well, as long as I sat straight up,
they were fine. So, that was a good start to the trip. The bus did not have AC,
but as long as the windows were open, it wasn’t too bad. Mysore is about 120km
away from Bangalore. Not too bad, it should only take 2 hours to get there.
Yeah, right. If we drove like Americans and the roads were, well, roads. The
roads tend to resemble the surface of the moon. So, you can’t go very fast.
Also, one of the more noticeable differences on the roads are speed bumps. Not
just on city roads and at intersections, where they are all over the place,
they also put speed bumps on the highways! You really cannot drive that fast,
even if you do, you have to slow down at the speed bump or you’ll destroy the
vehicle. So, along with the speed bumps and driving on the surface of the moon,
there is yet another delay. When you are nearing a city from the highway, they
also have “security barricades”. The road is two lanes, but the erect three
barricades in an offset pattern that forces you to slow down and take a snake
path through the three barricades. This really backs up traffic. On top of all
this, it is very common, actually expected for the bus to make stops every hour
or so. To let you off, get some food, stretch and go shopping?! Yes, one stop
was in a small town and the driver stopped in front of a small gift shop and
said you have 15 minutes to go shopping. I just wanted to go! I don’t need any
of this stuff.
We were on
the bus for almost three hours and we finally got to Mysore. Well, technically
we were still outside of the city, but it was nice to be somewhere. The first
place on our day long adventure was Tippu Sultan’s summer palace. Not to be
vain, but it did not impress me at all. It almost saddened me and disheartened
me to the rest of the day. When we got there we had to pay admission. White
admission. The tariff for everyone was 5 rupees, and for foreigners, 100
rupees! That was a little unnecessary I thought. So, we paid and went into the
palace grounds. As we were walking down the stairs though the entrance arch,
you could see the shed; I mean Palace two hundred meters ahead. When we got to
the Palace, we got in line to walk though and they hit us with another 10 rupee
tariff to go into the palace. Well, I didn’t feel like leaving the line, and it
was only 25 cents, so I walked through Larissa Joined me while Steve, Matt, and
Eric stayed outside. Once inside, we were told no cameras, so I can only
explain what was there. The walls were covered in huge murals of battle scenes fought
many years ago. It was just very hard to look at them and wonder where our
admission fee went. The Palace was in pretty poor shape and the interior needed
some major renovation work. The paintings were holding up, but the intricate
details in the molding and doorways were falling apart. But, it was a nice
glimpse into the struggle the India’s had with the British.
We left
the summer palace, and headed on our way to the next stop on our destination,
one of the many temples. As soon as we got off the bus, we were hounded by
people selling us stuff. All the way from the bus, to the temple, where they
were respectful enough not to follow us in. As we were approaching the temple,
we accidentally stepped too far with our shoes on, and got yelled at that we needed
to take our shoes off if we wanted to go any farther. We also had to leave them
outside as Matt found out. He tried to stick his shoes in his back pack, and
then go into the temple, but they wouldn’t let him when they saw his try to
take his shoes it. I was worried that my shoes might get stolen - I had the
whitest pair of shoes there, so they stuck out like me. A guy outside the
temple said he would watch over our shoes for us, so we agreed and went in.
While I was inside, a priest smeared the traditional red dot on my forehead. I
didn’t know what to think at first, but then I went with it. When we left the
temple, the guy who promised to watch our shoes held his promise. Our shoes
were where we left them, and so were the merchants that we left at the
entrance. They are some of the most persistent people you will ever meet. I
made the mistake to pick something up and look at it. Once you do that, it is
very hard to give it back to them. They keep trying to have you buy it. They
will not take it back, you almost have to put it on the ground and walk away. I
did buy something though, some bracelets for my sisters. (So, Claire and
Caroline, if you are reading this, I got you something. Stop yelling at me that
I never buy you anything.) Needless to say, they followed us back to the bus,
and then as we hurried to get on the bus, they came to our window and hounded
us for another 10 minutes until the bus left. And during those ten minutes,
they stood at our window yelling at us to buy their stuff.
After we
left the temple, we went and had lunch, and then it was on to the next stop. We
went to the Maharaja’s Palace. What a spectacle to behold. This palace was
enormous and it was beautiful too! It is one of the picturesque palaces that
you think of when you think of an Indian palace. It was quite the sight to see.
I only wish I could have been there Sunday night when they illuminate the
palaces with close to 100,000 light bulbs! I have a picture, but I was told
that it is incredible in person. After an hour of gawking and taking pictures,
we left the palace grounds to head for the bus. Again, we were met by hoards of
merchants all selling the same stuff saying there’s was the best! I got tired
of dealing with them, so I started speaking French. After a few minutes of them
trying to understand me, they realized it was futile. It was amazing! I freed
myself from their oppressive hold on me. I controlled the situation now. Well,
there was still one persistent guy who would not leave me alone, especially
when he heard me speak English to Steve. So, he followed us for a while and
tried to sell some bangles. They were nice, but I just bought some at the last
place! I was able to get the same deal out of him, so I guess I paid a
reasonable price. Initially, he and the guy at the other place both offered one
set of bracelets for 350 rupees. I got them both to 200 rupees for six sets of
bracelets. Not too shabby. But, still not as good as our crowning achievement.
After the
palace, we went to a silk shop and were almost forced to buy saris from the
salesmen inside. I’m not having that, so we went outside to wait for the rest
of the group. While we were waiting, we met more people trying to sell us
stuff! Imagine that… Well, this guy had musical instruments, bamboo flutes and
the instrument that you see snake charmers use. Well, his initial offer was 350
for one snake charmer instrument and 200 for a flute. That is ridiculous! So,
we decided to have fun with this guy. We had time to kill, and we just gave him
the most ridiculous offer we could, 10 rupees! He was really determined to sell
us these things, we go on the bus and he took up his position at my window.
After playing “My Heart Will Go On” on his bamboo flute, we had to keep talking
with this guy. It was too funny not too. After about 20 minutes of going back
and forth with ridiculous offers, and flat out telling him, “THIS IS GARBAGE,
“I DO NOT WANT IT, TAKE IT BACK OR I WILL DROP IT ON THE GROUND” we came to an
agreement. 50 rupees for one snake charmer instrument and two bamboo flutes.
Why did we buy them? I don’t know, but it sure was funny.
A few more
uneventful places later, and we started to make our way up to something that
caught my eye when we first got to the city, the Chamundi Hill. Atop the
Chamundi Hills is one of the most holy places in southern India. Legend has it
that that the demon Mahishasura, the king of the area that is currently Mysore,
was killed by the Goddess Chamundeswari (also Chamundi) after a fierce battle.
The hills hence got their name and a temple of the goddess was built on the
top. At 1000m above the rest of the city, you get a great panoramic view of the
entire area. Well, if it was a clear day and not monsooning at the time! As we
were leaving the temple, we experienced our first monsoon rains. It came right
up the mountain and right into our faces blowing sideways with a gale force. It
rained pretty heavily for a time, but it subsided almost as quickly as it came.
Let’s back up about thirty minutes, before the rain. As we got up the temple,
we found some monkeys and followed them around the side of the temple away from
the crowd where we met this kid.
Most
people trying to sell stuff are either middle aged, or very young. But, this
kid that we met was our age, and he was pretty smart too. He first came up to
us not asking us to buy stuff, but he asked where we were from. When I said,
USA, he immediately said “USA, capital city, Washington DC. California, capital
Sacramento. Texas, capital Austin.” Then I asked him a few other states, and he
started to slack off a bit. So then he changed the subject to European
countries. He started naming some countries and their capitals. Not too shabby,
he knows more than an average American. So, then I really threw him for a loop
when I told him to ask me a few. He did, and to his surprise, I was answering
them as fast as he was. Then I started asking him a few others from around the
world, and again, I stumped him. He was not too happy with me. He wanted to get
his edge back, so he reached into his pocket and pulled out some coins. He had
coins from all over the world! I was very surprised with this, and then he
started telling me how much each one was worth and then comparing it with the
US Dollar, the Euro, and the Rupee. He was right on with the conversions, and
quick with numbers too. He really wanted me to change some of my rupees for
some of his coins. But, I had no need for a Great British Pound even less use
for a South African Rand! But, this kid really got my attention for a while. He
was pretty smart, I just wish he could (or would) go to school and use that
brain. Not just bother tourists for a living. Alas, it was time to go and leave
Chamundi Hill.
As I said
before, this is when it started to rain! So, on the way down the hill, we could
only see Nandi, the giant bull from the bus. That was ok, I was starting to get
quite tired from the day, and I just wanted to go home. But, we still had one
more stop, the Brindavan Gardens and Musical Fountain at the Krishna Raja Sagar
Dam. This place at first was like a year round carnival with food vendors
selling food out of little tents, but as we went further in, it became apparent
that this place was pretty nice.
The
fountain show made me think this place belongs in Las Vegas! The fountains
looked like a mini version of what you see in front of the Bellagio! But, like
the rest of India, there were 5000 people standing right next to you the entire
time! It was a nice show, and the last of our day long adventure in Mysore.
Now just
the bus ride home and the adventure in Bangalore! We left the musical fountains
at 8:30, and at 9:30, we stopped for dinner at a small little place. I got a
bottle of orange juice and went right back to bed on the bus. I put some music
on and the next thing I remember is waking up to see the sign that says welcome
to Bangalore. Woohoo! Home, and its only 11:38pm. I figured we would be home
just after midnight, it took us less half an hour to leave the city and we were
supposed to have the same route into the city. Nope. I’m no expert at
navigating Bangalore, but we drove in circles. Finally when I realized where we
were, I went and told the driver which way to go to take us home. We didn’t get
home until 1:30am. It was a long day, but a fun one. Next weekend, Goa.